Costume and jewelries used in Odissi

Costume and make up

The costumes used in Odissi dance are quite similar to that of the traditional Bharatnatyam costume. The Pallu in Odissi dance is called the Thallaippu. The women Odissi dancers wear the patta sari, a brightly coloured silk sari which is approximately nine yards long and a black or red blouse called the kanchula,  embellish with contrasting stones and gold and silver thread.

 An apron-like silk cloth, known as the 'nibibhanda,' is tied from the waist like a ruffle worn around the legs. The waistband, called the jhobha, is a length of cord with ridge ends. The kanchula of the Gotipuas is quite different as is the method in which the patta sari of Odissi is draped. 'Komchila' is the richly embroidered blouse. The decorative headpiece of the dancer is made from styrofoam, which is shaped like flowers. The headpiece also contains a temple-shaped projecting structure.

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There are three types of hairstyles in Odissi dance, they are namely the ardh-bathaka or semicircular bun, the pushpa-chanda with the hair coiled into the shape of a flower and the kati-beni, which is a single crease down the back.

The eyes are decorated with kohl and there is a small mark on the chin. Some of the contemporary Odissi dancers, however, do not use the authentic costume and ornaments.

The makeup of an Odissi dancer includes Bindi (red dot), applied on the forehead with a pattern made from sandalwood around it, Kajal (black eyeliner) which is applied around the eyes with a broad outline to give them an elongated look.

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Head piece

The Odissi dancers wears a crown or Mukoot , which is made only in the city of Puri in Eastern Orissa. It is formed from the dried reeds called Sola. The reed is carved by a series of cuts into the rod-like stem and forms various types of flowers when a string is tied in the middle of the rod and pulled tight. As the string is tightened, the flowers takes the shape of a flower.

The Mukoot consists of two parts, the Ghoba and Tahiya. The flower decorated back piece, called the Ghoba, sits around the dancer’s hair pulled into a bun at the back of the head. This piece represents the Lotus flower with a thousand petals that lies above the head in the head Chakra which is known as the energy center. The longer piece that emerges from the center of the back piece is called the Tahiya, and this represents the temple spire of Lord Jagannath or the flute of Lord Krishna.


Jewellery
 

Odissi dance is always complemented with elaborate lattice silver jewellery pieces. The jewellery is made from intricate filigree silver jewelry pieces. Filigree, in French, means ‘thin wire,’ and in Oriya it is called Tarakasi in Odisha. The jewellery pieces plays a pivotal part in the Odissi dancer's costume and is comprised of the tikka, worn on the forehead, allaka, a head on which the tikka hangs, unique ear covers in sophisticated shapes, usually indicating a peacock's feathers, with jimkis earrings, two necklaces and two sets of bangles that are worn on the upper arm and wrist.

 

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